FOOD & DRINK, April Kitchen

Paul Clerehugh, Chef/Proprietor, The Crooked Billet, Stoke Row. 01491 681048

NEXT MONTH, in front of a live audience Pub in The Park want me to beat my World Record 13” Yorkshire pudding erection. Brilliant that Henley supports Marlow’s foodie & music festival.
Henley resident David Heartfield’s Impressario Festivals have taken over the festival’s reins. Impressario – the UK’s leading festival promotor renowned for exciting, innovative events (& posh loos).
I’m a proud chef to represent Henley along with a host of great chefs including James Martin, Raymond Blanc, Si King, Matt Tebbut – loads more of us – showing off – cookery demos.
Awesome bands, McFly, Razor Light, Craig David, Gabrielle. The Christians, Jools Holland, Henley’s Sam Brown – fronted Jools’ Rhythm & Blues Orchestra for many years.

Want’s a chef’s favourite music? Anything with a good beet.

My cookery demos: surpass the 13” Yorkshire erection achieved on TV some years ago where I beat James Martin’s previous 12” & share home dinner party dishes. A recipe attached.
Funny things dinner parties – dress up in your best clobber to cook something for the first time at home. Lay the table with stuff you never use, napkin rings, little name card holders & cook something for the first time – in heels. Dinner parties are making a comeback. Before you can say kumquat brûlée, you’ve cancelled the new car, taken the kids out of school to afford refurbishing the dining room & buying that new Smeg cooker.

Crooked Billet
Orkney sea trout in pastry with juniper

Ingredients (serves 4)
• 1 sea trout, weighing about 650g – 1kg, filleted and skinned
• 1 tbsp juniper berries, preferably fresh
• 100g butter, softened
• Zest and juice of 1 lemon
• 225g pack shortcrust pastry (or use home-made pastry)
• 1 egg, beaten, to glaze

For the lemon hollandaise cream:
• 150ml whipping cream
• 150g unsalted butter
• 1 egg yolk
• Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon

Method
– Preheat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6. Use tweezers or pliers to remove any stray bones from the fish fillets and season them on both sides.
– Bruise the juniper berries in a mortar with a pestle, then mix them with the softened butter, lemon zest and juice. Sandwich the two fish fillets together with the butter, spreading it evenly.
– On a floured surface, roll out the pastry large enough to enclose the fish. Lay the fish on the pastry, then fold over the sides and ends to make a secure and tidy parcel. Brush the edges with a little beaten egg and press them together to seal in the fish.
– Place the parcel on a non-stick baking tray. Brush the pastry with beaten egg and bake for 15 minutes. Then reduce the temperature to 150C/fan130C/gas 2 and bake for a further 30 minutes.
– Meanwhile make the lemon hollandaise cream. Whip the cream until it stands in soft peaks. Melt the butter in a small pan. Whisk the yolk in a heatproof bowl, drizzle in the melted butter, whisking vigorously to emulsify the butter and egg in a smooth, creamy mixture. Add the lemon zest and juice. Season to taste and fold in the whipped cream.
– Remove the fish parcel from the oven and serve immediately, with the lemon hollandaise cream.