Paul Clerehugh, Chef/Proprietor, The Crooked Billet, Stoke Row. 01491 681048
HENLEY in May, pretty perfect. Trees transform into a living theatre of colours, an urban canopy of blossom & gorgeous magnolia. Sunshine spreads optimism, take a walk through our bluebell woods, cheer your mental health & bring peace; those needles of bright sunlight & shadows as you walk.
As spring slips into summer, we have our town & river to ourselves this month before welcoming visitors to our Regatta & Henley Festival. The Crooked Billet proud to cook for lovely members of Phyllis Court at their idyllic riverside pavilion throughout Henley Royal Regatta. Along with a host of Britain’s most popular bands find The Crooked Billet at The Henley Festival. 300 riverside seats, delicious menu of local & British produce — no need to reserve tables.
Food tastes better when the sun shines. May, we’re blessed with spectacular local produce. 75% of Oxfordshire is agricultural & oh boy I appreciate nature’s monthly specials which almost write my menu for me. A growing number of farm shops, pick your own & farm gate schemes help us to enjoy food at its freshest, best & most nutritious; not to mention shorter supply chain, reduced packaging & environmental benefits.
Check out Blue Tin rare breed farm in Ipsden (near The Crooked Billet) & Bosley Patch, Marlow Road (by Swiss Farm camp site).
Bespoke producers are another of Henley’s joys, Gabriel Machin’s Smoke House, Nettlebed Creamery’s award-winning cheese. Barbara Laithwaite’s delicious sparkling wine, Stoke Row boasts 2 artisan bakeries — winner of Britain’s best loaf.
May — Asparagus grilled with olive oil & a grating of Nettlebed Witheridge cheese. Spring peas — eat their tendrils. Tomatoes from the Isle of Wright. Roe deer, red & white tipped breakfast radish, globe artichoke, mackerel, sea trout & international kidneys (tasting more delicious under their adopted name Jersey Royals) — steamed, buttered, Maldon Sea salt, orgasmic.
In Britain or abroad, wherever I’ve been, that oh so reassuring welcome home feeling when I’m driving back into Oxfordshire is the best. Welcome by two Angels, crossing the Thames over the bridge & home to Henley in May.
Catch Paul Clerehugh cookery demos Pub in the Park, Marlow — May 14-17 with culinary icons James Martin, Raymond Blanc & many more. Jools Holland, Gabrielle, Craig David, Razorlight, McFly. Tickets: PUBINTHEPARKUK.COM
Crooked Billet
Witheridge Cheese Soufflé Asparagus Tips, Breakfast Radish, Broad Beans & Pea Tendrils
Ingredients (serves 4)
• 200g soft curd cheese
• 4 x egg yolks
• 5 x egg whites
• 200g finely grated Nettlebed Witheridge cheese
• Maldon sea salt & ground black pepper
• 100g softened butter
• 100g ground almonds
Method
– Preheat oven 180°c.
– Mix curd cheese & egg yolk together, fold in grated cheese, beat to a smooth paste, whip egg whites to soft peak, fold 1/3 whites to cheese paste, season, carefully fold in remaining whites.
– Use softened butter & a pastry brush – butter 6 souffflé dishes. Butter dishes 3 separate times, upward brush strokes. Refrigerate dishes between each buttering, on final buttering liberally sprinkle ground almonds in & around each dish to completely cover sides & base.
– Fill soufflé dishes two thirds full with the cheese mixture.
– Place dishes in roasting tin of boiling water so that water comes two thirds of the way up sides of dish.
– Place roasting tin with dishes in pre-heated oven approximately 15 minutes until soufflé have risen approximately 2cm above rim of dish.